Tag Archives: food

The little Indian woman

“We don’t eat wog food,” Rachel’s mother spat. “You should know better than to bring that poisoned rubbish into this house!”

For years Rachel had watched the small, dark woman with the red dot on her forehead, tightly wrapped in her bright coloured, exotic clothing, as she would make the short walk to her husband’s workplace.

There would always be a stacked silver canister-looking thing in her hand. Rachel didn’t know it was called a tiffin carrier but she did know it held the hot lunch of the woman’s husband.

On more than one occasion, Rachel had placed herself on the footpath strategically at 11.50am so the woman would pass her.

She would always look at Rachel and give a slight smile and almost imperceptible nod of her head. Rachel barely noticed these as her attention would time and again be drawn to the metal food containers, captivated by the strange but enticing smell coming from them. It always made her mouth water which was a new sensation for her. 

Her mouth never watered at the routine fried-to-death meat and boiled-to-within-an-inch-of-mush three veg her mother would serve every night.

But young Rachel longed to know the contents of the container but dared not look the woman in the eye. 

Over time Rachel had come to realise the woman was Indian though her and her husband were often referred to as “paki” or “wog’ or some other name intended to dehumanise them to any impressionable young children and make the adults feel better about their lives.

Rachel’s mother was particularly venomous towards the woman, while her father’s anger was reserved for the husband who, he would frequently remind them, had “taken a job from a hard-working Aussie”.

For as long as Rachel could remember, it had been made clear to her she should have nothing to do with the few foreigners who lived scattered around their small but growing rural neighbourhood. Neighbourly-ness was to be reserved for the Australian born and bred only.

But as Rachel grew older, she started to question this more and more. As far as Rachel knew, the Indian woman and her husband had never hurt anyone. Yes, there were plenty of rumours they ate cats and dogs and some other unspeakable things.

However this so was at odds with the timid woman Rachel saw each day making the walk to her husband’s workplace every day – regardless of how hot or rainy or cold it was – she started to wonder more and more about the woman.

When word started to filter out that the little Indian woman was taking lunch orders from her husband’s workmates, there was quite the kerfuffle in Rachel’s house. Her parents were outright furious friends and neighbours would open themselves up to being poisoned or “who-knows-what-else”.

Rachel’s parent’s anger didn’t little, if anything, to deter the food orders.

The little Indian woman soon found herself running quite a business as she also started taking orders for evening meals. Word had spread through the town that the food was incredible and affordable and different.

She was so successful, the little Indian woman soon had another Indian woman working with her to keep up with the orders.

It wasn’t long before Rachel’s growing curiosity overtook her parents strong warnings and she timidly climbed the stairs of the little Indian woman’s house, the smells wafting through taking Rachel to far away places she could never have dreamt existed.

The little Indian woman was pleasant and welcoming of this neighbour she had seen on the street many times as she took her husband his lunch. The Indian woman wondered why she would always stand there looking into the distance, seeming to ignore her.

Rachel explained this was her first time and she wasn’t sure what to order and was nervous. The little Indian woman sat the young teenage Rachel down offering her a taste plate of a few of the meals she had prepared – butter chicken, lamb korma, even a goat curry.

But it was the breads she loved the most – the fluffy naan bread, the roti, the papadums.

For weeks Rachel would sneak to the little Indian woman’s house every chance she could to absorb the flavours and smell and the love the food had been prepared with. 

She soaked it all in and soon her and the Indian woman were having animated conversations. The woman’s head would bobble from side to side with as much regularity as Rachel would nod her head up and down in agreement, both never realising how similar their gestures were.

After a few months, Rachel felt compelled to share her incredible discovery with her parents and took home some naan bread and a very mild butter chicken – the mildest and tastiest dish she could think of which her parents may enjoy.

“We don’t eat wog food,” her mother spat. “You should know better than to bring that poisoned rubbish into this house!” 

And with that, she scooped it up and threw it in the bin, yelling at her husband they needed to go to the pub to get a steak otherwise they would go hungry.

Rachel’s parents never tried Indian food.

 Rachel moved to India.

Coming home

I watch you watching her.

This young mother flying with three young children, has your full attention.

I can’t tell if it’s because of the babies, or because of the inescapable beauty of the woman herself.

The much older lady seated next to you, spills your story to me without your permission. A young refugee from Ukraine, here because of the war.

She speaks over you, a small, frail young girl trapped in her plane seat between these two strangers.

I reckon you to be about nine. You seem overwhelmed. How she managed to extract your story before the flight was fully boarded will forever be unknown.

The woman with the large smile, peppers you with questions you clearly struggle to understand. She is patronising but thinks she is being encouraging.

You sigh visibly with relieve when she agrees to change seats with your father and it heralds his arrival. You lean in close to your father and put your head on his shoulder, eyes closing briefly before you are startled back to alertness.

The young mother with three babies becomes the focus of your attention again.

It makes me wonder where your mother is. Is she alive? Is she waiting for you at the other end of your flight? There is a sadness and intensity in how you watch this mum which tells me you miss yours. Will see you see her again?

The plane is about to take off and I offer you a mint to suck on, explaining it helps with the ears. You smile and accept. I offer one to your dad and he gruffly says no.

I wonder if he was always gruff or did war make him that way? How much did leaving his home, his country, his family, harden him? What terrible things have this father and daughter seen? What uncertainties do they face every day in a new country? Who is here for them or are they alone?

I am deeply thankful for the freedom I have in my life. The safety we have been able to create, never knowing life in a war zone.

The plastic bag which constitutes your carry on luggage, is stuffed under the seat. There are no high tech phones or fly lite bags.

You sleep soon after take off, head resting lightly on your father.

I see the woman with the babies now has his attention and he grimaces over pain I will never understand.

I know I will wonder about you for a very long time. And I wish you well, you and your gruff dad, and I hope you have found peace.

I cannot get enough of India’s insanity

March 2013

Honestly, India! You do my my head in completely but always make me laugh at how ludicrous you are. You are infuriating enough that one has to make the decision quickly to go with the flow or be driven insane. It always shakes me out of my complacency and drags me completely into the moment.
By the time my plane landed in Goa, I was exhausted. It had been a 23 hour trip and with my mind in a whirl of confusion about my job and the pressures on me to achieve career objectives while in India, my mood was somewhat dark.
I was unimpressed with the domestic/international/military base airport. I was pretty unhappy when my bag finally appeared on the slowest moving luggage carousel in the world only to discover the side zipper had busted open and the remaining contents were trying hard to play catch up with the bag.
That said, I did manage to get out of the airport pretty quickly and I was REALLY looking forward to getting to my fancy motel – the perks of business travel.
When I emerged into the glaring sunshine, I was immediately smothered in an oppressive heat. But I had been in India before and knew to expect this. What I did not expect was what happened next.
I saw an attractive young man clamouring among the hundred or so people parading placards for hotels with the names of guests they were expecting. This man was holding up a sign with the name of the motel I was staying at, but displaying a different guest’s name. I approached him through the throng of family reunions, confused tourists and business travellers. I told him I was staying at that motel but the placard did not have my name on it. He consulted his folder and quickly found my name. I nodded enthusiastically until I saw confusion cross his face. He looked at the “Arrivals” board which listed three landed planes.
Pointing to the board, the young man was uncategorical: “but madam, you have not yet arrived”.
I looked at the board and saw my recently landed plane was indeed listed as “delayed”. I chuckled and looking down at myself and at my surroundings to make sure I wasn’t dreaming, I said: “but you see, I have arrived, I am standing here.”
But there was no moving this man. “No madam, your plane is not here so you are not here”.
Yes, India. I had indeed arrived – sort of.
I suggested I would wait until I did arrive. This sounded like a very good idea to the young man. So I took in the smells, the sounds, the heat, the people and waited until my plane finally landed. After 20 minutes the young man turned to me and said: “oh good madam, you arrived now. Welcome to Goa”. It is impossible to do anything other than smile at such a welcome. I thanked him and suggested it would be very good to get to the car. But wait, there was another passenger whose plane had arrived but he was missing!!!! We waited another five minutes or so until he turned up and then we were on our way.
It was a gorgeous drive to the motel and my companion on my “exclusive” car trip to the motel was a very knowledgeable Indian who was in Goa for the first time for a conference. His excitement was infectious and he just about jumped out the car window when he saw the ocean. What a treat to bear witness to such an experience.
When we did make it to the motel I was starved so ordered some room services and had a quick shower. The food arrived much more promptly than I did and I was immediately reminded of one of my absolute favourites aspects of India – the food. The spices, the fusion and depth of flavours. Oh my God. It was amazing and despite the heat, the airport wait and the exhaustion, I felt complete contentment.
The next morning I determined to discover Goa. I managed to squeeze in a couple of days leave before the conference I was here to attend started. I went to the concierge and asked where a specific store was – Fab India, a dear friend had introduced me to this feast of all things Indian. I asked how far away it was. “Ten minutes by taxi,” the concierge told me. I asked how long it would take to walk. “Ten minutes”. Was the answer. I soon discovered that apparently everything was “10 minutes” away either on foot or car or rickshaw. Even if it was half an hour by car, it was still a 10 minute walk.
There was no malice in what some would consider to be such misleading statements. The fact is Indians, as a rule, have a somewhat different concept of time than westerners. Time is, for many, an external construct which really is not relevant. It passes whether you are watching it or not.
So I set off on foot. The directions I was given were, well, vague and, frankly, incorrect. So I walked and walked and walked, a hell of a lot longer than 10 minutes. The heat and humidity soon conspired to develop very impressive blisters between my big toes and second toes, thanks to the thongs (flip flops to most) I was wearing! In the end I dispensed with the footwear altogether but quickly started to develop blisters on the bottom of my feet from the searing heat of the asphalt.
I was lucky enough to find some shade on the Main Street next to a massive park which was hosting four separate cricket games. I have found anywhere on the subcontinent that if you stop and watch a cricket game, it is an automatic invite for locals to engage in conversation. Invariably the name Sachin Tendulkar comes up. I was lucky enough to meet the Indian cricket legend myself at Brisbane Airport the year before. Man that always gives me major currency with Indians. And the fact we can share a discussion about his brilliance always, always, always makes me smile.
India is the place which reminds me no matter how different people may seem to each other, there is always common ground if you just look for it. For me, this gives the people of India I have met a genuine warmth I cannot help but respond to positively. The country may be mad and chaotic and completely defy logic, but it a place full of genuine people and I cannot get enough of it. I count myself as incredibly blessed to have experienced the madness that is India a couple of times now. I can’t wait to get back there.

Getting my chill on in Pokhara

June 5, 2013

Namaste!
So I a now ensconced in an ashram in Pokhara. It is weird being in a place like that, with all that love and good will and no electricity and hot water only when it is sunny (which is suprisingly often despite the onset of the monsoon). Gonna hang in Pokhara for quite a while, probably until just a few days before I fly home. It is a very cool place with lots of laid back people and nature is just everywhere.
I realise now the total level of disconnection from nature I have been living in and I dig having to make way on the roads for bullocks, cows, goats, camels, dogs, ducks, chickens and a few other bizarre item.
This place is hippy central and has lots of internet cafes and whatnot. It seems everyone here is trying to find themselves, some by getting lost trekking, others by meditating and others but just getting really, really stoned!
The ashram is kinda hard work and is hurting my knees more than the trekking did. We do two yoga sessions in the morning, one meditation session and then a break before two more meditation sessions in tne afternoon which are mostly dancing! There is also healing and all sorts of stuff in between. Quite exhausting really and raising some big issues. Not the peace, love and chill out I was hoping for but I am confident this is what I needed.
What is strange for me is that I keep seeing myself returning back to my life, but that life is no longer there. I am struggling a lot with that. I see myself returning to my old home with my son and the dog and cat and then going back to my old job. But that isn’t going to happen and a couple of times I have found it really hard not knowing what is coming up next – there is a freedom and exhileration in it but also a kind of terror.
Everything I used to define myself by has gone and all that is left is a void of uncertainty. Scary stuff when it comes down to it.
Other than that, loving Nepal. There is a spiritual undercurrent to life here which I really like. A tolerance and acceptance of people, ideas, religions, beliefs, individuality. It is refreshing.
In Chitwan I spent a heap of time with elephants – riding them, swimming with them (utterly childlike cool) and just watching them. They are brilliant creatures. Also managed to see some rhinos, peacocks, loads of deer, crocodiles. And they were all soooo close. I loved it.
In Lumbini, birthplace of Buddha, we were watching a local game of cricket – seriously, it is played on every ounce of grass there is in Nepal – and the game had to stop while a couple of water buffalo just wandered slowly across the pitch. The batting team used it as a drink’s break! It was surreal because up the road were busloads of Indian pilgrims being herded by loudspeaker on to their buses to get going to the next holy spot, the sun was setting, fields were being burnt in preparation for the next sowing and a cricket game just stops to make way for buffalo. I have completely fallen in love with the place.
Am avoiding Kathmandu because it becomes nothing more than a boggy marsh in the monsoon and too many revolting men keep asking to sleep with me. Yuk! And then there is the bus ride there.
I am sooooo over Nepali buses. The stuff of nightmares. Hot, over-crowded, smelly, breakdowns, roadblocks, washed away bridges. They have it all going for ’em.
I am supposed to be at a meditation session now but my body was just so exhausted.
I am due to come home in about four weeks!!! Man, how time flies.
A