Tag Archives: Travel

The little Indian woman

“We don’t eat wog food,” Rachel’s mother spat. “You should know better than to bring that poisoned rubbish into this house!”

For years Rachel had watched the small, dark woman with the red dot on her forehead, tightly wrapped in her bright coloured, exotic clothing, as she would make the short walk to her husband’s workplace.

There would always be a stacked silver canister-looking thing in her hand. Rachel didn’t know it was called a tiffin carrier but she did know it held the hot lunch of the woman’s husband.

On more than one occasion, Rachel had placed herself on the footpath strategically at 11.50am so the woman would pass her.

She would always look at Rachel and give a slight smile and almost imperceptible nod of her head. Rachel barely noticed these as her attention would time and again be drawn to the metal food containers, captivated by the strange but enticing smell coming from them. It always made her mouth water which was a new sensation for her. 

Her mouth never watered at the routine fried-to-death meat and boiled-to-within-an-inch-of-mush three veg her mother would serve every night.

But young Rachel longed to know the contents of the container but dared not look the woman in the eye. 

Over time Rachel had come to realise the woman was Indian though her and her husband were often referred to as “paki” or “wog’ or some other name intended to dehumanise them to any impressionable young children and make the adults feel better about their lives.

Rachel’s mother was particularly venomous towards the woman, while her father’s anger was reserved for the husband who, he would frequently remind them, had “taken a job from a hard-working Aussie”.

For as long as Rachel could remember, it had been made clear to her she should have nothing to do with the few foreigners who lived scattered around their small but growing rural neighbourhood. Neighbourly-ness was to be reserved for the Australian born and bred only.

But as Rachel grew older, she started to question this more and more. As far as Rachel knew, the Indian woman and her husband had never hurt anyone. Yes, there were plenty of rumours they ate cats and dogs and some other unspeakable things.

However this so was at odds with the timid woman Rachel saw each day making the walk to her husband’s workplace every day – regardless of how hot or rainy or cold it was – she started to wonder more and more about the woman.

When word started to filter out that the little Indian woman was taking lunch orders from her husband’s workmates, there was quite the kerfuffle in Rachel’s house. Her parents were outright furious friends and neighbours would open themselves up to being poisoned or “who-knows-what-else”.

Rachel’s parent’s anger didn’t little, if anything, to deter the food orders.

The little Indian woman soon found herself running quite a business as she also started taking orders for evening meals. Word had spread through the town that the food was incredible and affordable and different.

She was so successful, the little Indian woman soon had another Indian woman working with her to keep up with the orders.

It wasn’t long before Rachel’s growing curiosity overtook her parents strong warnings and she timidly climbed the stairs of the little Indian woman’s house, the smells wafting through taking Rachel to far away places she could never have dreamt existed.

The little Indian woman was pleasant and welcoming of this neighbour she had seen on the street many times as she took her husband his lunch. The Indian woman wondered why she would always stand there looking into the distance, seeming to ignore her.

Rachel explained this was her first time and she wasn’t sure what to order and was nervous. The little Indian woman sat the young teenage Rachel down offering her a taste plate of a few of the meals she had prepared – butter chicken, lamb korma, even a goat curry.

But it was the breads she loved the most – the fluffy naan bread, the roti, the papadums.

For weeks Rachel would sneak to the little Indian woman’s house every chance she could to absorb the flavours and smell and the love the food had been prepared with. 

She soaked it all in and soon her and the Indian woman were having animated conversations. The woman’s head would bobble from side to side with as much regularity as Rachel would nod her head up and down in agreement, both never realising how similar their gestures were.

After a few months, Rachel felt compelled to share her incredible discovery with her parents and took home some naan bread and a very mild butter chicken – the mildest and tastiest dish she could think of which her parents may enjoy.

“We don’t eat wog food,” her mother spat. “You should know better than to bring that poisoned rubbish into this house!” 

And with that, she scooped it up and threw it in the bin, yelling at her husband they needed to go to the pub to get a steak otherwise they would go hungry.

Rachel’s parents never tried Indian food.

 Rachel moved to India.

Coming home

I watch you watching her.

This young mother flying with three young children, has your full attention.

I can’t tell if it’s because of the babies, or because of the inescapable beauty of the woman herself.

The much older lady seated next to you, spills your story to me without your permission. A young refugee from Ukraine, here because of the war.

She speaks over you, a small, frail young girl trapped in her plane seat between these two strangers.

I reckon you to be about nine. You seem overwhelmed. How she managed to extract your story before the flight was fully boarded will forever be unknown.

The woman with the large smile, peppers you with questions you clearly struggle to understand. She is patronising but thinks she is being encouraging.

You sigh visibly with relieve when she agrees to change seats with your father and it heralds his arrival. You lean in close to your father and put your head on his shoulder, eyes closing briefly before you are startled back to alertness.

The young mother with three babies becomes the focus of your attention again.

It makes me wonder where your mother is. Is she alive? Is she waiting for you at the other end of your flight? There is a sadness and intensity in how you watch this mum which tells me you miss yours. Will see you see her again?

The plane is about to take off and I offer you a mint to suck on, explaining it helps with the ears. You smile and accept. I offer one to your dad and he gruffly says no.

I wonder if he was always gruff or did war make him that way? How much did leaving his home, his country, his family, harden him? What terrible things have this father and daughter seen? What uncertainties do they face every day in a new country? Who is here for them or are they alone?

I am deeply thankful for the freedom I have in my life. The safety we have been able to create, never knowing life in a war zone.

The plastic bag which constitutes your carry on luggage, is stuffed under the seat. There are no high tech phones or fly lite bags.

You sleep soon after take off, head resting lightly on your father.

I see the woman with the babies now has his attention and he grimaces over pain I will never understand.

I know I will wonder about you for a very long time. And I wish you well, you and your gruff dad, and I hope you have found peace.

Wanted: advice for a young traveller starting his journey.

It is no secret to anyone who knows me that I believe travel is a valuable way to build character, explore new cultures, grow as a person, understand that universally we are more alike than different. I think time spent travelling is possibly even more valuable than a couple of university degrees and I am pretty fanatical about education.
So it is with a mixture of pride and excitement and trepidation that I am helping my son to plan some overseas wanderings. He has not travelled overseas alone before. And I am nervous for him. Thrilled, but nervous. He is about to turn 19 and, to my mind, that is still pretty young!
He is still deciding where to start. As a novice traveller, I have suggested he steer clear of Asia initially. Yes, it is on our doorstep and cheap. But it can also be very confronting for a young traveller. I want him to build his confidence before he takes on the challenges of backpacking around Asia. He went to Vietnam and Cambodia with me a few years ago and struggled with the poverty. The smell and pollution and noise and different cultures were a shock to a 15-year-old.
So his attention has been drawn to both Africa and Europe. I have some contacts I can offer in Europe – and contacts who can offer contacts. He is fast learning that as a backpacker, lobbing on people and asking to sleep on their couch is going to happen a lot. And it will either pay off or it will not. But it is cheap and safe and may even include the benefit of a home-cooked meal and a chance to do some laundry. As long as he does not overstay. I suspect he may learn that lesson the hard way.
But more and more, he is talking about Africa. At a party this weekend he was told by some experienced backpackers to trust his gut and he tells me his gut is saying Africa. Our close family friends are South African. He has the benefit of at least having a starting point there and a couple of contacts. Our friends are happy to make the introductions.
However, my heart is a little torn. South Africa is dangerous. And he is young and inexperienced. And I want to go with him and explore the “cradle of creation” too.
I am so excited my son is about to embark on a journey which will change him in incredible ways. Which will broaden his already very broad way of thinking.
I would love any advice I can pass on to him. Any websites he absolutely must check out before he goes. Information I would not have thought to pass on or flat out just don’t know. Tips any of you who have embarked on a similar journey can offer.
I look forward to hearing what you guys have to say. Thank you in advance.

The mobile Rocky Horror Show

Have you ever had one of those days where you wonder if you have woken up in a parallel universe? Where all kinds of weird inexplicably happens to you at every turn? I did one day last week, but thankfully it was all kinds of good weird. And I still can’t get my head around it.
But of all the weird to arrest me on this particular day, nothing could match not just my bus trip into the city, but the inescapable feeling I had accidentally entered a mobile version of the Rocky Horror Picture Show.
I had intended to walk into town for my appointment – in Queensland “town” is used to describe anything close to a CBD. In my case, I live within walking distance of the city of Brisbane and it is an easy and pleasant walk along the river. But as soon as I left my building, the suffocating heat of an October heat wave day swept over me. I was determined though and did the mental coin toss – do I walk into town using the main roads or the river walk. In this heat it was a no brainer.
I crossed the road to get to the river quickly but found myself within seconds at a bus stop. Every step was hard in the heat and as I spied a bus trundling down the main road, I decided what the hell and opted for the bus.
But as the bus edged closer to me, I noticed it was an Express bus and as such would not stop at my stop. On a whim I stuck out my hand to see what would happen and the bus did indeed stop. Surprised I climbed aboard to hear the jovial giggling of the bus driver announce “I know I’m not supposed to stop here, but I stop where I want to”. The driver followed this with a totally bizarre laugh which caught my attention more for how out of place it was than anything else.
There were a smattering of other passengers on the bus and they all seemed to be egging on the driver who then announced that rather than head straight into town, had decided to detour to the cultural precinct. It was not a major detour but was quite unprecedented in my bus travelling days in Brisbane. The other passengers on the bus giggled away and kept egging on the driver.
“What the hell is going on” kept wandering through my head. Then I felt a pair of eyes bearing down on me. I looked to my right to see a large, dark woman probably in her 40s, staring intently at me. I smiled. She did not. Just then I felt a shudder behind me. I looked around and saw an older lady, perhaps in her 60s violently shaking the seat in front of her. Okay, this was getting really weird. She glared at me, challengingly. I increased the volume on my iPod.
I had thought or hoped the bus driver was joking when he announced we would be touring the cultural precinct of Brisbane. He was not. The bus turned the corner onto the bridge to take us on to the other side of the river. The guy seated closest to the driver asked if this was part of the normal route. He was told no. They both giggled.
I tried to smell for gas fumes in the bus to see if this explained the behaviour of those I was encountering. But I could detect no such smell.
I looked to the back of the bus and saw an indiscript bunch of people except for a teenager who was rocking out to his own music and smiling in an altered kind of way.
When the bus pulled into the cultural centre, I decided enough was enough and disembarked. It meant a small walk into town but it was just too much weirdness for me. I noticed a few other passengers from the back of the bus took the same action. Truly, I am still scratching my head about that one.
I figured the bus trip was a one off incident but that same afternoon, I had three separate, random people approach me in the main shopping area and tell me how good my hair looked. I have very closely shaved hair which is rarely worthy of comment.
I ordered a coffee and the guy serving me noticed the bottle of water in my hands was near empty. He offered to fill it up for me. It was a really nice gesture which I accepted, but again, weird.
I then watched an elderly man order what was clearly his first taste of Indian food as he was totally flummoxed when ordering and settled on “just something which isn’t too spicy”. About half an hour later I saw the same man trying to order an ice cream. He seemed overwhelmed by the choices on offer and opened his wallet where he slowly stroked a yellowing and ageing photo of an old woman. He mouthed something to the face in his wallet and this seemed to fortify him enough to enable him to proceed with his ice cream order. I decided the photo was of his wife who I assume was dead. I could be completely wrong but this man seemed so intent on trying new things; I dunno, there was just something about his manner, a sadness which was striking.
It was a strange afternoon all round. I don’t understand it, in the same way I fail to understand much of what has happened to me in the last year. But I am glad that the weirdness was generally good and largely amusing. And I am glad I can still be surprised by life.

I cannot get enough of India’s insanity

March 2013

Honestly, India! You do my my head in completely but always make me laugh at how ludicrous you are. You are infuriating enough that one has to make the decision quickly to go with the flow or be driven insane. It always shakes me out of my complacency and drags me completely into the moment.
By the time my plane landed in Goa, I was exhausted. It had been a 23 hour trip and with my mind in a whirl of confusion about my job and the pressures on me to achieve career objectives while in India, my mood was somewhat dark.
I was unimpressed with the domestic/international/military base airport. I was pretty unhappy when my bag finally appeared on the slowest moving luggage carousel in the world only to discover the side zipper had busted open and the remaining contents were trying hard to play catch up with the bag.
That said, I did manage to get out of the airport pretty quickly and I was REALLY looking forward to getting to my fancy motel – the perks of business travel.
When I emerged into the glaring sunshine, I was immediately smothered in an oppressive heat. But I had been in India before and knew to expect this. What I did not expect was what happened next.
I saw an attractive young man clamouring among the hundred or so people parading placards for hotels with the names of guests they were expecting. This man was holding up a sign with the name of the motel I was staying at, but displaying a different guest’s name. I approached him through the throng of family reunions, confused tourists and business travellers. I told him I was staying at that motel but the placard did not have my name on it. He consulted his folder and quickly found my name. I nodded enthusiastically until I saw confusion cross his face. He looked at the “Arrivals” board which listed three landed planes.
Pointing to the board, the young man was uncategorical: “but madam, you have not yet arrived”.
I looked at the board and saw my recently landed plane was indeed listed as “delayed”. I chuckled and looking down at myself and at my surroundings to make sure I wasn’t dreaming, I said: “but you see, I have arrived, I am standing here.”
But there was no moving this man. “No madam, your plane is not here so you are not here”.
Yes, India. I had indeed arrived – sort of.
I suggested I would wait until I did arrive. This sounded like a very good idea to the young man. So I took in the smells, the sounds, the heat, the people and waited until my plane finally landed. After 20 minutes the young man turned to me and said: “oh good madam, you arrived now. Welcome to Goa”. It is impossible to do anything other than smile at such a welcome. I thanked him and suggested it would be very good to get to the car. But wait, there was another passenger whose plane had arrived but he was missing!!!! We waited another five minutes or so until he turned up and then we were on our way.
It was a gorgeous drive to the motel and my companion on my “exclusive” car trip to the motel was a very knowledgeable Indian who was in Goa for the first time for a conference. His excitement was infectious and he just about jumped out the car window when he saw the ocean. What a treat to bear witness to such an experience.
When we did make it to the motel I was starved so ordered some room services and had a quick shower. The food arrived much more promptly than I did and I was immediately reminded of one of my absolute favourites aspects of India – the food. The spices, the fusion and depth of flavours. Oh my God. It was amazing and despite the heat, the airport wait and the exhaustion, I felt complete contentment.
The next morning I determined to discover Goa. I managed to squeeze in a couple of days leave before the conference I was here to attend started. I went to the concierge and asked where a specific store was – Fab India, a dear friend had introduced me to this feast of all things Indian. I asked how far away it was. “Ten minutes by taxi,” the concierge told me. I asked how long it would take to walk. “Ten minutes”. Was the answer. I soon discovered that apparently everything was “10 minutes” away either on foot or car or rickshaw. Even if it was half an hour by car, it was still a 10 minute walk.
There was no malice in what some would consider to be such misleading statements. The fact is Indians, as a rule, have a somewhat different concept of time than westerners. Time is, for many, an external construct which really is not relevant. It passes whether you are watching it or not.
So I set off on foot. The directions I was given were, well, vague and, frankly, incorrect. So I walked and walked and walked, a hell of a lot longer than 10 minutes. The heat and humidity soon conspired to develop very impressive blisters between my big toes and second toes, thanks to the thongs (flip flops to most) I was wearing! In the end I dispensed with the footwear altogether but quickly started to develop blisters on the bottom of my feet from the searing heat of the asphalt.
I was lucky enough to find some shade on the Main Street next to a massive park which was hosting four separate cricket games. I have found anywhere on the subcontinent that if you stop and watch a cricket game, it is an automatic invite for locals to engage in conversation. Invariably the name Sachin Tendulkar comes up. I was lucky enough to meet the Indian cricket legend myself at Brisbane Airport the year before. Man that always gives me major currency with Indians. And the fact we can share a discussion about his brilliance always, always, always makes me smile.
India is the place which reminds me no matter how different people may seem to each other, there is always common ground if you just look for it. For me, this gives the people of India I have met a genuine warmth I cannot help but respond to positively. The country may be mad and chaotic and completely defy logic, but it a place full of genuine people and I cannot get enough of it. I count myself as incredibly blessed to have experienced the madness that is India a couple of times now. I can’t wait to get back there.

A not so subtle Lonely Planet job application

I used to dream of wealth and all manner of quantifiable success in my life – a good job, a husband, happy kids, a nice home. But as I get older and life has presented few of these childlike notions of happy ever after, increasingly my attention is turning to travelling and exploring the world.
Let’s face it, for those of us who love to travel, scoring a gig where we actually get paid to do so is the holy grail. But it’s a case of how best to do that.
My strongest two skills are my ability to write and my openness to new experiences. These two qualities set me in good stead to make a living from travel. But I don’t want to be one of those travel writers who writes gushing reviews of airlines or motels.
Power to those who can and do, but I spent too long as a journalist to write faux gushing reviews of anything. I know of one journo who once wrote a brutally honest travel story about what can only be described as the trip from hell. The story was brilliant and funny and incredibly entertaining. But he never worked as a travel writer again.
I know another journo who had to do a restaurant review but was under clear instructions that the review could not be negative as the sales team didn’t want to get the potential advertiser off-side. The food was apparently so bad, the entire review was about the restaurant’s decor.
I have no interest in being inauthentic or reviewing anything with a pre-destined outcome.
For the last few years I have been lucky enough to have a job which sent me around the world. I didn’t get to write about these exotic and sometimes bizarre destinations – except to my friends and family – but this time instilled in me a passion for travelling which is a long way from being satiated.
I have bought a bundle of Lonely Planet guides and lived vicariously through them. Now I am pushing Lonely Planet to broaden its own horizons. Their travel guides are ideal for young backpackers and those of us a little older who want basic information including what scams to look out for, climate, must see sights and whatnot. But for those of us over 40, the accommodation recommendations very often don’t quite cut the mustard. You can be older than 30 and still long for adventure and excitement but let’s face it, at the end of the day you very often want to go back to a room which has a hot shower, comfortable bed and is not being shared with a bunch of strangers. And the chances are, the older you are, the more likely you have a slightly larger budget.
This is where writers like myself come into it. Should Lonely Planet include new sections in their guides for the slightly older traveller? Absolutely. I know of dozens in my age group who share this opinion. There is a market for it.
I am, of course, open to any other suggestions on how to make a living combining my love of travel and my ability to write.
Anyone reading this who has been able to do so, I would love to hear your story.

Introduction to Nepal

May 2, 2013

HELLO FROM NEPAL!
Wow! I honestly don’t know where to start. I sat next to an English coal miner’s daughter between Brisbane and Singapore (really!!!) who wanted to tell me all about her dying mother – an occupational hazard; eneryone feels a need to tell journos their life story! The flight in was extraordinary (not including the poor Nepalese woman who passed out on her way to the loo, directly in front of my seat (still waiting to make sure she had no contagious disease!). The view of the Himalayas was breathaking, amazing, awe-inspiring. I had the same reaction when I saw the Taj Mahal but this time was with a plane full of people, many of whom were experiencing the same level of awe as me.
Kathmandu is bizarre, No other word for it really. Hot, heavily populated with locals hoping to make a quick buck from “rich” tourists. My hotel room is as basic as a room can get. The shower is quite literally a hole in the wall. There is no air con which is fine as there is very often no power (up to 12 hours a day Nepal “power sheds” which means the switch is flicked and the power is out.) Thankfully my motel has a generator which works some of the time. It kept sputtering and then shutting off last night. I watched as they drained fuel from a motorcycle and fed it in to the generator which duly sputtered back into action for about 20 minutes – making the entire building shake with its noise and vibration as it did so. The toilet flushes only when there is power (truly a mystery to me!), my room clock says it is 4 at all times and there is no bin or even facilities to make tea. Yet a guy in the street yesterday told me the hotel I am staying at is kind of top notch. I seem to have one of the best rooms in the place thanks to a former colleague arranging the room through an old school friend. My room overlooks the courtyard/garden (read carpark) and the residence of the motel owner Kiran and his extended family. It is humbling to see how this family lives. I realised last night that everything I packed in my suitcase and backpack was probably more than most Nepalese own!!!
Cows have right of way on the road on the odd occasion when they do move – except when they stop in the middle of the street which is unfortunate for motorists and pedestrians alike. Strays dogs are a dime a dozen spending hours searching for food but ignoring people. I wanna feed them all.
Buffalo, it turns out, does not taste at all like chicken. More gamey and well, kind of yuck!
More to come. Hopefully some of this will start to make sense soon – or not!